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Lemongrass Asian Bistro
Celebrating 20 Years in the Short North

by Christine Hayes
January/February 2019 Issue

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Pete Vitt, founder of Lemongrass stands beside his son Jesse. Manager Tiyah Noeuv is seated beside Pete’s wife, Chor Vitt.

It was 1999 when Pete and Chor Vitt opened the first Asian restaurant in the Short North. Countless other restaurants have opened and then gone, but the familiar understated green neon Lemongrass sign still shines just north of the Cap on the west side of High Street. Upon entering, the light and airy feel emanates from the gentle touch of the decor, the large glass windows are perfect for people-watching.

On a recent Gallery Hop afternoon I lunched and mused. Single people, regulars, had a quiet repast. Parties of two, three, and four, obviously in a celebratory mood, tucked into their meals. Others had cocktails and appetizers. There’s something for everyone at Lemongrass, and it isn’t loud music or obtrusive service. It’s cool and it’s fun, and the beat goes on outside, with people strolling, scootering, or sidling up the street. Meanwhile, good food with the smells and tastes of chili, lime, lemongrass, and coconut milk, among other seasonings, will warm your heart and taste buds.

I last reviewed Lemongrass for the Short North Gazette in March of 2003. Little did I know I would be doing an update years later. The “award wall” (they’ve won every one imaginable) near the bar tells the story of the Vitt family’s charity, and care with their product. Don’t miss the pillar with the photos of Stevie Wonder visiting Lemongrass, and also Viggo Mortensen.

In interviewing Anya Herbert, an employee of Lemongrass for 17 years, I also learned of other famous visitors: Ben Folds Five, Jack White, Alison Mossheart, Franco Harris of the Pittsburgh Steelers, The Killers, and teams from The Amazing Race TV show. But Anya’s favorite visitor still remains Stevie Wonder. “He was in with five members of his family. I didn’t know it was him at first, but then he smiled, and I knew it was. Many people from the street were coming in to take photos.”

Ms. Herbert also gave me an idea of the sequence of expansion that has happened at Lemongrass. In 2003 they added the back dining room. This room featured an atrium and a fountain and a gallery, Lanning at Lemongrass. This room now can be rented for private parties. It holds 65 people. It is separated from the main dining room by a curtain. At my recent 2019 visit, the entire back room and all the rooms featured colorful abstract paintings by Scott Steelman. (All the art is for sale.) But let’s return to 2003: At that time a new front bar, piano, balcony, and sushi bar went in also. Roger Williams was the designer.

The front dining area of Lemongrass is perfect
for people-watching on High Street.

Mr. Williams, being reached by phone, commented that he designed flower murals on the south wall and the entranceway and an interior display in the style of Robert Mapplethorpe, “as directed by the owner.” Mr. Williams also did faux painting technique on Dorri Steinhoff’s clothing store next door.

Fast forward to 2005: Lemongrass took over Ms. Steinhoff’s store next door and created a bigger space. The bar expanded from a few seats to an accommodating 20 feet long. Then in 2012 another remodeling occurred, when the middle wall was knocked down, and the bar moved to a curving side position. Mary Daniels, “Jazz Mary,” played at Lemongrass for many years on Fridays and Saturdays. Daniels has been recognized as a Columbus music historian and a historian of the East Side. She is also known for the all-women ensemble Moxie, with Linda Dactyl on drums in that ensemble.

Anya Herbert was a server, then a bartender, then general manager. She felt like family to the Vitts and also said the regular customers felt like family. She watched couples come to the restaurant for their first date, then get married, then bring in their children. This continuous family involvement is the secret to the Vitts’ success, she said. Tiyah Noeuv, now the general manger and hostess, says, “I have been with Lemongrass for seven years, I feel like ‘basically family’ as well.”

Pete Vitt, owner, was born in Thailand; his family’s restaurant/hotel background there has served him well. He came to this country as a cultural exchange student in 1969, staying with local families first at the University of Kentucky, then in Columbus. In 1971 he attended OSU, at both universities majoring in business. He transferred to Franklin University and graduated from there. He worked at Rax and learned much there about the American restaurant business. He did not finish graduate school because by that time he had met his wife, Chor, and they were expecting a child.

1987 was a great year for the Vitts: Mr. Vitt became an American citizen, and the husband and wife started Thai Palace on route 161 near the French Market in the Continent, which the family operated for 13 years. (The two restaurants, Thai Palace and Lemongrass, were open simultaneously for only one year.) The Vitts, of course, like most restaurant families, work seven days a week. Their oldest son, Jesse, is now more of a hands-on owner and his father is semi-retired. Jesse took IT management in college, so he keeps a watchful eye on the business accounts. Jordan, the younger son, is now a veterinary cardiologist. In addition, the Vitts now have Lemongrass Express, a catering business at OSU and Cardinal Health.

In 2003, Mr. Vitt gave me the impression that his sons were quite “hands-on” in the restaurant. “Jesse challenges the cuisine with vegetarian preferences,” he said. And “Jordan invented and developed the Lemongrass salad: field greens, romaine, pineapple, tangerines, crispy noodles and a signature dressing.”

The years of serving Asian Fusion cuisine have paved the way for a menu that is clear and uncluttered. The labels for vegetarian, gluten-free, and dishes with Thai chili are plainly marked. While most dishes are Asian, there is room for Cajun scallops, chicken wings, and fettucine Alfredo. Many of the dishes are presented as available plain, and then tofu, chicken, beef, shrimp, or salmon may be added. The portions are large, the prices are right, and no one looked as though they were in a hurry to leave. I was the host to a large party last year, and it was fun to share such dishes as vegetable dumplings and the Lemongrass Sampler: two seafood Rangoon (crab, shrimp), two chicken sate, and two spring rolls.

This time, I had the Lemongrass soup containing scallions, mushrooms, carrots, zucchini, ginger, lemongrass, and shell pasta in a hot broth, in both senses of the word. The soup is served with a crisp dumpling (perfect for dipping) in an oversized mug, so you don’t feel guilty slurping up the last drop. This is the stuff you want to chase away any blues or germs. The mug keeps the soup piping hot for a long time. The silverware is oversized, too, and chopsticks are served as a matter of course. I also had the tofu pho, which is another noodle-y soup with a completely different, but also very good, broth. It had sprouts, crushed peanuts, cilantro, scallions. The ingredients for each dish are clearly labeled on the menu. I took home much of it to make another meal. The take-home container was a re-usable plastic with their own label, NOT Styrofoam, reminding the customer that Mondays has 40 percent off all wine bottles, and that Happy Hour is Monday through Friday 3 -7 p.m. AND 9 p.m. to close. A classy touch, complete with a $5 off coupon.

Now that we’ve mentioned the drinking menu, let’s talk about the signature cocktails: Contempo Colada, The Sakura (Japanese Cherry Blossom), Sassy Grass, Wasabi Honey Margarita, Tokyo Sour, Mango Momma, Mule de Mure. All of them have zingy ingredients; for example, blood orange vodka, coconut sake, mango rum, cherry blossom green tea, Thai lemongrass and Vietnamese black peppercorn infused gin, chili pepper rim, mango wedge, house-made ginger syrup. There’s a lychee lush Martini, a list of 17 different sakes (50 percent off on Sundays), 28 beer offerings, 21 of them local and craft, 23 wine selections. A drink called the Cabin Fever features Remy Martin 1788, lemon, honey, and Chinese bitters, which might chase away those blues and germs as well as the soup.

For lunch, there’s Bento Box, Kim Chee noodles, Pad Thai, Tom Yum dumplings and shrimp, tempura, Choo Chi kebabs, wraps, monsoon shrimp, among other things; for dinner the same but also Hawaiian duck, scallops, tuna steak, lemon sole. The dinner Lemongrass trio consists of garlic pepper shrimp, scallops, crabcake, and fettucine (which does seem like a quartet.) For dessert one can have fried plantains, mousse cake, tiramisu, three kinds of cheesecake. Among the non-alcoholic drinks are ginger beer and various teas. Momma’s Mai Thai (Chor’s signature drink) has no ingredients listed – she’s not telling! As stated on the menu! “Momma’s Mai Tai is hugely sought after,” says Anya Herbert.

The chef is Suvicha Tassanamailia. He is keeping the tradition of the careful and savory use of lime leaf, basil, lemongrass, shallot, onion, dill, garlic, thyme, cilantro, parsley, chili, peppercorn, and rosemary, among the many dishes.

Come in to Lemongrass and congratulate the Vitts and their loyal staff on a job well done. As construction and parking issues cloud the Short North’s horizon, the Vitts are serving up the consistent quality items one has come to know and love. Avoid the franchises and seek the real thing.

Lemongrass Fusion Bistro, 641 N. High St., is open Sunday through Tuesday, 11:30am - 10 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Visit www.lemongrassfusion.com • Facebook •  or call 614-224-1414 for more information.

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