Columbus, Ohio USA
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'Convivio' is the Word for the Quinci Emporium Experience
by Christine Hayes
March/April 2019 Issue
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Photos © Gus Brunsman III
Ask Deborah Quinci about her vision for Quinci Emporium and you will see the passion level elevate. “Convivio,” she immediately responded. “It is the art of sharing.”
Deborah, originally from Palermo in Sicily, has created an enticing and orderly space with her business partners Connie Klema and Kevin Hurst, along with chef Adam Poland (formerly of Eleni Bakery and Rigsby’s). Ms. Quinci came to the United States when she was 20 years old. In her Utah college, she and a friend had a catering business. “This was a time when Martha Stewart was coming onto the scene,” she explained. “Inspired by the beauty and ease of her style, we made sandwiches and salads, bundled them in our cute basket, and began selling to professors. I think this is truly the moment I knew my long-term calling.”
Recalling her professional growth, Quinci continued: “Eventually, my family moved to Cincinnati where I worked at Busken Bakery to develop European-style bread. I moved to Columbus 23 years ago and worked at Recipe Express and later as a private chef. Little did I know that I would eventually work for an organization that would impact me both professionally and personally. At Freedom a la Carte, I cooked and mentored – convivio – for the women who were victims of human trafficking. At the time, they had a staff of four and now they have a staff of twenty-four. ”
Arriving early one Saturday morning, I experienced the already-intoxicating smells of the cooking in Quinci Emporium. This newly renovated space in the former Cookware Sorcerer storefront gives the feeling of stepping into an Italian kitchen, a transformation into conviviality and warmth. No longer are you in a humdrum world. The chef’s “dream kitchen” is turning out exquisite pastries, bread, and take-home food; the wines are standing up like little soldiers; the numerous cookbooks hum a little tune; the sound of the cappuccino machine is filling your ears; eager cooking class participants are learning the techniques.
One’s eye is drawn back to the table set for the eight cooking class participants with cutlery, plates, glassware, and flowers. Above hangs a wrought iron chandelier. The window beyond frames a turquoise sculpture in the garden outside. I sat at a black table with white chairs, white mixed bouquet, and one large white bowl; but one must pop up to see all the largesse: Deborah straightening the kitchen, Adam at the steam and convection oven, dough rising. A bookstore-style ladder slides to access the wines and books in pristine white shelves.
How does it all fit in between the aged-brick walls and the hardwood floors? “I lived behind the Cookware Sorcerer. It was filled with the most wonderful cooking items, said Quinci. “I had stopped in several times and talked to the owner Nancy (Haitz). We shared our passion and stories for cooking”– convivio.
Haitz approached Connie Klema (a long time business contact) and Quinci about acquiring the store. “I was humbled and excited at the same time. This was the perfect opportunity for me to start realizing my dream,” Deborah said. In March of 2016, Quinci and Klema closed on the business, received the keys, and began the transformation. They introduced new wares. By 2017, Quinci Emporium had its wine and on-site food license.
“After seven months, we finished the first kitchen which launched our cooking classes – sharing experiences, sharing laughs – convivio. We introduced a ‘lifestyle’ rather than just a store: a community, a neighborhood place.” The newly constructed wine shelves brought boutique wines and new interesting varietals to the Short North, wines not typically found at larger retails stores.
The newest partner Kevin Hurst takes up the tale. “By bringing in smaller production wines, it gives us a chance to share our insight with our customers – convivio. It’s an opportunity to try something new and be adventurous.” Quinci Emporium brings in representatives from the wineries to host tastings which are perfectly paired with in-house made foods.
In October 2018, Chef Adam came on board and in early November they had the second kitchen up and running. Throughout construction, Quinci developed recipes that would eventually be offered as take-away meals, which now includes a variety of tortes, quiches, entrees, salads, breads, and sweets.
L to R: Alena McClain, Kyle McClain, Deborah Quinci, LeAnn Valentine, Christine Kessler, Jordan Kessler I stopped in on a day when a pizza-making and lemon almond torte class was on the calendar. The idea of the cooking school feeds into the concept of convivio. The participants get to learn styling on the plate, and they always get printed-out recipes to take home. “I focus on being very prepared and have everything ready before the participants come to class. Still to this day, I lose sleep ensuring everything is perfect,” says Deborah as she oversees the group-making of a torte. “We’ll whip that into soft-peak form,” as the mix of sugar, egg yolks, lemon peel, and ground almonds anticipates some fluffy egg whites. Now it was time for hands-on. “Fold it like you mean it.” One of the participants said she was back for the Pizza Neapolitan class after having made braised beef with creamy polenta and a chocolate flourless torte in a prior class. Everyone took home extra pizza dough for experimenting further. Because the hands-on classes are kept small (six to eight people), they tend to fill up quickly and often have a waiting list. Fear not, if you have your own group, Deborah will work with you to have your own private class. To get a “flavor” for the menu, upcoming and previous classes are posted online.
The take-out menu at Quinci is not corporate-prescribed: it can be fluid and impromptu. I admired the biscotti made with no butter, Sicilian almond cookies (Deborah’s secret recipe), savory rolls, Italian stecca (baguettes), ricotta quiche, lasagna Bolognaise-style with bechamel. Not only does she make these, Ms. Quinci can spell them rapidly, to this reporter’s happiness. As a side note about the Silician almond cookie, I indulged in one and agree with Hurst when he says they are “addictive.” He recommends buying two because after you have the first one, you will wish you had just one more bite. Agreed.
The vegetable-ribbon tart and the vegetable frittata beckoned. Sandwiches, soups, salads, and charcuterie are also available. Menu changing daily. Waters and juices are sold at the take-home, or dine-in, counter. Locals are picking up on the fine wares on their way in or from work. The Emporium is not a restaurant, but its wares can be enjoyed on the premises. The Mitica chocolated figs and oranges also looked like they could become an obsession. The HU dark chocolate as well – these items are not only yummy, but gluten-free, vegan, and of the paleo diet.
In regard to chocolate, Quinci recounted an early experience with American hot chocolate, “it was powdered something with water made in a microwave.” The store, to be sure, serves a sinful and soulful Valrhona hot chocolate, along with all coffee drinks associated with an Italian coffee bar.
One cannot help but notice the large kitchen with Carrera marble. Hurst especially noted the expert help from Aaron Siarkowski (Luxe Interiors) in construction, and Marcie Rechsteiner from Wasserstrom Restaurant Supply as key players in the success of the “dream kitchen.” Of course, the quality of the kitchen ultimately affects the quality of the food created there. When asked for a comment, Siarkowski added via email:
“We’re very happy how the layout and bakery millwork came out. Deborah and Connie were great to work with. They knew exactly the look they were going for which made the design and planning a breeze. With the help of Marcie at Wasserstrom the biggest hurdle, getting the kitchen equipment in place, was efficiently accomplished with good communication and teamwork, especially noted since we had to remove the rear picture window to have Marcie’s team move the oven inside and put in place. ”
Chef Poland gave me a tour of the state-of-the-art oven. “It has a self-contained hood. We change the filters often,” he said. “It’s the only range the city will approve without ductwork. The steam oven is perfect for bread. It’s multi-purpose: it’s also a convection oven with a carousel.” (Here he opens the oven.) “Nine full sheet trays fit inside. It’s programmable.” Lots of storage of sellable items surround the oven; the use of space is like that of a sleek airplane or boat. The kitchen set-up is quite impressive and customers and chefs alike are in awe of the equipment. Hurst added, “We often have customers comment that this is their dream kitchen and have asked if they can move in.”
Amid the cooking, I admired the mirror above the sideboard, the wonderful Italian artist Mario Madiai’s painting of a fantastic Last Supper, (Mario formerly having a studio at the fondly remembered Junctionview), the shining mixers, pitchers, crocks, copper pans, jars of pesto and sauces, teas, cutting boards, aprons, kitchen towels, candles, old pewter, salad bowls, marble counters, steel counters, containers of flour, cheeses, meats, tomatoes, and olive oil from Italy.
Quinci brought to my attention the Mosser Glass cake stands, mixing bowls, tableware, pitchers and tumblers that are for sale in the front of the store. Made in Cambridge, Ohio, the glassware is a stunning example and legacy of the fine glass that Ohio has been known for manufacturing. Of special note are the locally made wood cutting boards. Klema, in addition to being a full time attorney and real estate developer, finds time to hone her artistic craft making wood products which are sold and used at the store. Her skills also caught the attention of Sharon Weiss Gallery where she recently exhibited “Sketches in Wood.”
I reached out to Marcie from Wasserstrom for her thoughts and I think it perfectly summarizes my visit, “The first few moments you spend with Deborah you realize just how passionate she is about family and the blending of design, food and music to create a wonderful experience. That passion inspired Aaron and I to design a space that could blend the harder edges of commercial equipment with the use of locally hand-crafted cabinets, marble, and glass, all working together to create an extension of Deborah’s home. She also grows her own herbs in a small city scape garden along the back window outside! I really think customers will love the space but most of all I think they will love Deborah and how special she makes each customer feel when they walk through that door!”
Quinci Emporium is to be found at 688 North High St. in the Short North. Hours are Monday through Saturday 10-6, Sunday 11-5. Call 614-228-8678 or visit www.quinciemporium.com for a schedule of cooking classes, delicious food pictures, and photos from a prior tour of Tuscany, eating and cooking all the way.© 2019 Short North Gazette, Columbus, Ohio. All rights reserved.
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