Columbus, Ohio USA
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North Market wecomes new vendor: Taste of Belgium
June 2009
by Mary Martineau
email mmartineau@northmarket.com

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© Photo of Jean-Francois courtesy of North Market
Belgian waffle and crêpe lovers rejoice! Belgian native Jean-François Flechet has opened Taste of Belgium at the south end of the North Market. The tale of how Jean-François came to be a waffle-maker is as intriguing as his crispy caramelized waffles are delectable.

Jean-François moved to the United States more than a decade ago to pursue a doctorate in Economics at the University of Pennsylvania. He eventually ended up in Cincinnati working for a market research company. After working for five years and receiving his green card, he decided to start his own enterprise developing a vending machine that dispensed hot food. He was back at home visiting family in Belgium and attending a trade show when he was enticed by the familiar smell of Liège waffles. He discovered an older gentleman baking up fresh waffles according to a family tradition some 100-plus years old. Jean-François was mesmerized by the process, struck up a rapport with the man and was invited to visit the production facility a few days later in Brussels. Convinced by what he learned (and tasted) Jean- François immediately purchased one of the (120 pound) waffle irons to bring back to the United States with him, and so began his foray into waffledom.

Jean-François’ brother had to ship the contraption to Cincinnati via freight when the airline would not permit him to bring it aboard (too heavy), another friend lent his electrician’s acumen to convert the machine to function on America’s 110-volt system, and acquaintance Jean-Robert de Cavel (of Maisonette and Pigall’s fame) provided kitchen space early in the venture for the creation of the specialized waffle dough. Jean-François began baking in the Findlay Market at the back of a fruit and vegetable store. “I set up the waffle iron on a counter where they had been making coffee and there I was making waffles surrounded by zucchini and tomatoes!” recounts Jean-François of his inaugural stint at the public market.

In January of 2008, Taste of Belgium graduated to its own space in the Findlay Market and now Jean-François has opened his second venture in Columbus’ North Market. In addition to Liège style waffles Taste of Belgium will feature savory and sweet crêpes, salads and an espresso bar. Liège style waffles are popular street food in Europe. The Liège waffle dough is sweeter and denser than the typical Belgian style waffles we are familiar with in the United States. They have an intense vanilla flavor, and cooking in the specialized cast iron press produces a crunchy caramelized exterior. In Europe they are served wrapped in paper to go, no utensils necessary.

The Belgian style savory crêpes are made with buckwheat flour and beer (the Belgian twist). Combinations include traditional: egg, ham and Gruyere; Italian: egg, cappicola and provolone; vegetarian: roasted red pepper, goat cheese, baby spinach and balsamic glaze; and salmon: smoked salmon, red onion, crème fraiche and chives. The sweet variety (buckwheat omitted) will include fruits and chocolate, banana and Nutella, caramel au beurre salé (lightly salted French caramel) and lavender sugar with freshly squeezed lemon. A special crêpe of the week and seasonal varieties will be added to the menu as fitting.

Taste of Belgium’s espresso-based beverages are made with coffee provided by the Coffee Emporium. Operating since the early 1970s, Coffee Emporium is the oldest coffee house in Cincinnati and possibly Ohio. The roasters at Coffee Emporium go “straight to the origin” to procure their coffee beans. “They just visited Guatemala and they’re headed to Ethiopia next. They are more fair than fair trade,” said Jean-François.

The next time you are in the North Market, stop by Taste of Belgium and savor the pastry that made Belgian royalty swoon. They’ll have a phone number set up soon. In the meantime you can check up on them at www.authenticwaffle.com

Taste of Belgium is located at 59 Spruce St. in the North Market. For more information call 614-224-6196 or visit the North Market Web site at www.northmarket.com

©2009 Short North Gazette, Columbus, Ohio. All rights reserved.
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